Cosmetology: The art and science of beautifying and improving the skin, nails and hair and the study of cosmetics and their application. Cosmetics is a term that comes from the Greek word Kosmetikos which means, skilled in the use of cosmetics.
As a Cosmetologist, it's my obligation to not only help people look good and feel good about themselves, but also educate them and share with them important information about products out there in the market that can be harmful to your health. So I have decided to share information here about products you need to avoid when choosing your cosmetics, skin and personal care products. I hope this helps and if you have any other information you'd like to share with me, please feel free to send me a note through my Contact form linked below. Thanks!
Ingredients to Avoid:
1. Parabens (methyl, propyl, butyl, ethyl): are preservatives used in cosmetics. While these preservatives inhibit microbial growth and extend product shelf life, they are also estrogenic and disruptive of normal hormone function. Exposure to these parabens has been linked to breast cancer.
2. Formaldehyde (hydantoin dmdm): classified as a human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer. Some Nail polishes and removers have formaldehyde. Formaldehyde can irritate your eyes, nose and throat, dry out and irritate your skin and even cause asthma and cancer with repeated exposure. Look for formaldehyde-free products.
3. Phthalates: hormone mimickers and can cause breast cancer, miscarriage and reproductive abnormality concerns. This can be found sometimes in perfumes, some hair sprays, lotions and baby bottles.
4. Propylene Glycol (PG): It's used as a skin penetrator in cosmetics. Butylene Glycol (BG): Derived from petroleum, these ingredients penetrate the skin and can weaken protein and cellular structure. Commonly used to carry formula extracts, it is strong enough to remove barnacles from boats and is an active ingredient in industrial antifreeze.
5. Sulfates: used in shampoos/conditioners to create foam. Can be contaminated with dioxanes. They remove oils from skin, color from hair(hence your color can fade quicker) and cause irritation( eye membrane damage, eczema, acne, psoriasis, cradle cap, dry scalp, dermatitis) I can attest to that, I got some mild dermatitis in my hands from this. Now, some examples of those that you need to be on the look-out for are sodium lauryl sulfate, dodecyl sulfate, laureth sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, trideceth sulfate. These cheap, harsh detergents, used in shampoos for their foam-building properties, are also used in car washes, as garage floor cleaners, and as engine degreasers. They are often derived from petroleum and can cause eye irritation, scalp irritation, and tangled hair. There are many sulfate free shampoos and products that you can use instead and you can get them through your salon.
6. Citrus oil: Photosensitizers, used in baby bath products and that burn or irritate eye membranes.
7. Artificial Colors can contain carcinogens mostly in children's bath products, colors that make fruit punch, red, gelatin green and cereal blue. Synthetic Colors and Dyes: Used in cosmetics. Synthetic colors and dyes derive from coal tar and contain heavy metal salts that deposit toxins onto the skin, causing irritation. Animal studies have shown almost all synthetic colors and dyes to be carcinogenic. These are labeled FD&C or D&C followed by a color and a number. Example: FD&C Red No. 6 or D&C Green No. 6.
8. Toluene : is used in nail polish and hair dye.Toluene is toxic to the nervous system, and breathing it in can cause dizziness and headaches. High exposures can lead to birth defects and miscarriage, reproductive abnormalities, respiratory disease. so watch out if you work in a nail salon. Look for Tolulene-free polishes.
9. Dioxanes: are carcinogens in bath and personal care products.
10. Lavender and Tea Tree Oil: recent research linked both to Gynecomastia which is a condition where boys could develop breasts. Females can still use them but remember that anything in excess is not good for you.
11. Diethanolamine(DEA): used in cosmetics, can become a potent carcinogen called nitrosodiethanolamine(readily absorbs through skin). Linked with stomach, esophagus, liver and bladder cancers. Triethanolamine (TEA): These ingredients are synthetic emulsifiers and/or foaming agents. They are highly acidic and can cause allergic reactions, eye irritation, and dryness of hair and skin. DEA and TEA are ammonia compounds, which are potent carcinogens.
12. Diazolidinyl Urea and Imidiazolidiny Urea: formaldehyde concerns.
13. DMDM hydantoin and Imidazolidinyl: urea toxic contaminants
14. Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone: allergies, nervous system.
15. PEG and -eth: toxic contaminants
16. Triclosan and triclocarban: they are commonly used in liquid hand soaps/antibacterial soaps. Thyroid and environmental concerns
17. Anti-aging creams with lactic, glycolic, AHA, and BHA acids
18. Fragrance: Because of an FDA loophole, cosmetic companies can hide a whole slew of chemicals, many of which are phthalates, under the label "fragrance". Research more about fragrance, and avoid this ingredient like the plague.
19. Skin lighteners with hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is banned in Japan, the European Union, and Australia, but it’s still in use in the United States and other countries worldwide. Hydroquinone is found not only in Asian and African skin-lightening products, but in creams to lighten age-spots as well. There's some evidence that hydroquinone is a carcinogen, and is linked to ochnronosis, a condition in which grayish brown spots and bumps occur on the skin.
20. Coal Tar: used to treat eczema, psoriasis and other skin disorders and can be found in anti-itch creams and scalp treatments. It’s also a known carcinogen.
21. Phenylenediamine (PPD): An ingredient used in hair dyes (including eyelash dye), the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) has run studies that show a higher incidence of cancer among hairdressers and cosmetologists; they have the highest PPD exposure. Although PPD is not approved for products that come in contact with the skin, hair dye usually gets on your forehead or ears for up to 30 minutes.
A newly released study commissioned by the Organic Consumers Association (OCA), analyzes leading "natural" and "organic" brand shampoos, body washes, lotions and other personal care products for the presence of the undisclosed carcinogenic contaminant 1,4-Dioxane. A reputable third-party laboratory known for rigorous testing and chain-of-custody protocols, performed all testing.
Ethoxylation, a cheap short-cut companies use to provide mildness to harsh ingredients, requires the use of the cancer-causing petrochemical Ethylene Oxide, which generates 1,4-Dioxane as a by-product. 1,4-Dioxane is considered a chemical "known to the State of California to cause cancer" under proposition 65, and has no place in "natural" or "organic" branded personal care products. 1,4-dioxane is also suspected as a kidney toxicant, neurotoxicant and respiratory toxicant, among others, according to the California EPA, and is a leading groundwater contaminant. Although previous studies have revealed 1,4-Dioxane is often present in conventional personal care products, this new study indicates the toxin is also present in leading "natural" and "organic" branded products.
The sources for this information are: Think Before You Pink, a project of Breast Cancer Action, National Cancer Institute, CDC, Cancer Prevention Coalition, ABC Science, Organic Consumers Association and The Environmental Working Group I have read extensively about this through many other sources as well.
When selecting the proper shampoo it's also very important to understand the pH levels as well. The pH scale measures the amount of hydrogen in a solution and it determines whether it is more alkaline or acid. This scale ranges from 0 to 14. A shampoo, for example that is more acid, can have a pH rating from 0 to 6.9; one that is more alkaline can have a pH rating from 7.1 to 14. The higher the rating (more alkaline), the stronger and harsher the shampoo will be and it will leave your hair feeling dry, brittle and more porous and it can make your color-treated hair fade quicker. The pH of hair and skin in the scale is rated at a 5. If you like to wash your hair every day, your shampoo should be acid-balanced so a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 is recommended to prevent excessive dryness and hair damage during the cleansing process. This is also recommended for color-treated hair or lightened.
Some tips about Essential Oils to keep in mind:
* Sweet fennel, hyssop, sage and rosemary should not be used by anyone with epilepsy.
* People with high blood pressure should avoid hyssop, rosemary, sage and thyme.
**Skin Irritants(Never apply directly to the skin):
*Allspice, bitter almond, basil, cinnamon leaf, cinnamon bark, clove bud, sweet fennel, fir needle, lemon, lemongrass, melissa, peppermint, tea tree and wintergreen.
***Keep in mind that Tea Tree Oil is a natural antiseptic and when in its pure form, it should never be applied directly to the scalp or skin; however, you can add some drops to a scalp treatment product to combat dandruff. You can add a few drops to a scrub for a pedicure or water (in a sanitized) foot spa for a soak.
